Tips from Rick – Living in Yankee Land

I am constantly torn between New York City and Texas. I love them both. It is much, much easier to live in Texas and I find the quality of life is immensely better. New York is special and what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.

I have lived in New York City for the past 5 ½ years, for a total of 7 years of my lifetime. I hear people all the time – friends, strangers, tourists – say they “could easily live here”. I love New York, don’t get me wrong, but it is not for everyone no matter how much they want it to be. It is not for me some days, most days lately. So, I would like to clear up some misconceptions that people may have and give some tips for people seriously thinking about going through with such a move.

The Boroughs

New York City consists of 5 Boroughs: Manhattan (The City), Brooklyn, Queens, The Bronx and Staten Island. It also occupies some surrounding areas including Ellis Island, Governor's Island, Riker's Island, Randall's Island, and Roosevelt Island.

I think a big misconception is about Queens, thanks to movies like Coming To America. Queens is not a slum area. It covers 109 Sq. Miles – about the size of Tampa, FL. It has some good areas and it has some slummy areas. I live in Astoria, Queens and I would not live anywhere else in New York City.

Friends, Sex and The City, and Reality

Here is a reality check.

Rachel worked in a coffee shop and lived in a huge 2 bedroom apartment, dressed in great clothes and had all kinds of money to do pretty much whatever she wanted. In reality her apartment she shared with Monica would be at least $4,000 a month, if not way more, plus bills. Daddy was rich, but she is supposed to be doing this on her own.

Same thing with Carrie Bradshaw. Before her book deal, she wrote for a paper. People here that do that, make about $40k per annum. Not nearly enough to pay rent for the location she is living in (Upper East Side), afford Manolos, buy more than one drink (usually between $12-$16 each) at the swanky velvet-roped places they frequent, not to mention the stocking of the rest of her wardrobe. And, they take cabs EVERYWHERE. Real New Yorkers don’t do that. You use the damn trains! Cabs are a luxury even the pickiest of financially comfortable New Yorkers do not do more than twice a week at most. I am only able to take them when I go to and from the airport. My bosses only take them when the company is reimbursing them for the ride.

Random Tips

If you buy it, you carry it. Including groceries or the 10 boxes of shoes that you found for $5 pair. And you probably carry it for more than 10 blocks. And if you do plan on taking a cab, there is not gonna be one when you want one. Next time, you will be choosy and buy just 3 pair.

There is no such thing as a matinee movie here. It is always $12.

Good home cooking, decent Mexican food and eatable BBQ do not exist here. Just give up right now. The BBQ you may can get, but with a beer it will cost you about $40 each, and it will be ribs, not brisket. Brisket here is a tough roast swimming in BBQ sauce.

This horrible and not right, but we do not live in a perfect world. Stereotypes exist for a reason, and every single one of us falls into some sort of stereotype. As wrong as this is, it could very well keep you from being mugged, swindled or from getting your ass beat. Now, I am not telling you to be shallow or mean. Before you judge a book by its cover and firm up an opinion of someone, give them a fair shot. On the other hand, there is no learning curve if you are a dumb ass, so just use your brain a little and be aware of your surroundings. I am just saying if you are in the West Village where there are a bunch of homosexuals in a big gay bar that are going crazy to a Madonna song, then don’t bad mouth Madge, even if you think she is a whore with no talent or religion, or you WILL get bitch-slapped (personally, I love Madonna); if you are in Harlem around a crowd of manly African American males, don’t speak ill of Malcolm X or Beyonce; don’t talk about how great Dirk Nowitzki is or snack on bacon in public in a Jewish neighborhood, and if you are in Spanish Harlem, even if you don’t agree with it, you need to appear to think everyone should learn Spanish and don’t ever bring up the Alamo. And if you can’t say nothin’ nice, don’t say nothin’ at all, to anybody. Nobody likes a dickhead, whatever your race, religion or sexual orientation.

I bought a new car up here once. The car payment was $450 a month. The insurance for that car was $810 per month. You do not need a car up here if you make under $120,000 per year, and even if you do, you will still need to make sacrifices.

You do not just go and get an apartment here. They have to interview you first. If they like you and feel you are a safe candidate and you beat out the other 150 people looking at the same apartment within the hour, then you have to spend 1 month deposit, first and last months rent and a realty fee of equivalent to a month of rent. So if you are lucky enough to find an apartment for say, a cheap $1,200 a month, then to get into that apartment, you will have to have $4,800 up front.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with public transportation. It is safe, cheap and reliable and most times, faster than a cab.

In your paycheck, they take out Federal Tax, New York State Tax and New York City Tax. If you live in New Jersey and you commute to NYC to work, they also take out New Jersey Tax.

You do not wait in line here. You wait on line. I don't know why. I think they were saying it way before Al Gore invented the internet.

You have to tip the mailman around Christmas or you are not gonna get all your mail all the time. You should also tip your landlord and doorman, should you have one.


Cool Stuff New York Has That Not Every Tourist Sees

The Garment District which also has some cool craft shops

The Diamond District. It is so shiny.

Brooklyn Heights cool Italian neighborhood (The one in Moonstruck)

Brighton Beach’s Russian vodka bars and restaurants

Little India

Astoria Queens was named the most culturally diverse neighborhood in the world in Time Magazine a few years back. They have GREAT Greek food and customs. And my backyard.

If you liked Da Vinci Code, you can have a free day looking for symbols. Just bring your camera and take a good look at all the buildings. You will find some really cool stuff, inside and out.

A lot of churches here are like the cathedrals in Europe. My favorite is St. Bart’s on Park at 50th. (see photo)

In the summer there are street festivals nearly every weekend.

Mr. Softee. Horrible name, bless his heart, but he has good ice cream.

Bryant Park shows movies every Monday night at dusk in the summer. Bring a picnic and some wine.

You don’t have to pay full price at every museum. The Guggenheim and the private museums you do. Places like The Metropolitan Museum of Art where they say ‘Suggested Price’ you tell them how much you want to pay. I go several times a year, so I never pay more than $2 – the suggested price is $12.

The Hell’s Kitchen Food Festival. You can try different dishes for $2-$3, like Coconut Curry Beef (mmmmmmm) or Cuban dishes. Desserts too.

Bootleg Lady. No, she is not handicapped, she sells illegally copied DVDs. She doesn’t speak English and after 5 years, she cannot get it through her head I have no bebes. But, she is real sweet. She drives a red van and she works Sat and Sun 11-3, rain and police pending.

Gelato. It’s Italian ice cream. It is fantastic.

Feel free to ask any questions that you may be pondering.